We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Ingrid Johnson of Paws Whiskers and Claws, The Feline Hospital in Marietta. See all the AJCPets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: About 6 months ago I brought home a 6-year-old stray female cat to give her badly needed medical attention. She is a very fearful cat and lives in the upstairs portion of my house in order to give her sanctuary from my other three indoor only cats. She is adjusting very slowly to my family and tolerates two of my cats in her sanctuary space occasionally as long as they stay a couple feet away from her.

My third cat, a neutered 4-year-old male, Gizzy, has never intentionally been allowed in her area because he is so aggressive with her. He bolts when the door is opened to her sanctuary and three times has gotten in and tried to attack her. Once he scratched her nose, but the other two times they had no physical contact before I intercepted him. He runs at her and starts slapping at her, while she backs up and tries to defend herself. (Gizzy is sometimes overly playful/aggressive with my other two cats, even though my other boy is twice Gizzy’s size.)

I have tried Bach’s Rescue Remedy and it does help calm Gizzy, but it wears off quickly, even though I put it in his water bowl. Gizzy has no medical problems that we are aware of. Do you have any suggetions on how to calm Gizzy or how to resolve his issues with the stray?

A: Anytime a new cat is introduced to an existing colony (your three established cats) there is bound to be some upset, and it could be months before harmony is reached. It would be worthwhile for Gizzy to have an “aggression exam,” just to rule out any possible medical causes.

This would be looking for something that is making him uncomfortable in any way, such as a urinary tract problem, painful teeth or itchy skin. If the new cat is sick, Gizzy also may realize this and he may be choosing to pick on her because of her medical condition.When a group of cats live together they form a “colony scent.”

It is helpful to flip flop bedding from the sanctuary room to the rest of the house and vice versa to help cross scent the cats. Brush all of the cats with the same brush, wipe them down with the same cloth, and make the four of them a group without them having to actually interact.Next switch out the living spaces. Allow Gizzy and the other two cats to explore the new cats room. Eat her food; use her litterbox without her in the space. Allow the new cat some access to the rest of the house while the other cats are in the sanctuary room.

This will allow her to explore and get comfortable with her new surroundings without having any confrontation. It will also give your existing cats the chance to hiss and spit and get out their frustrations without being able to attack the newcomer.Positive reinforcement can be very helpful here. To encourage the cats to approach the sanctuary room door and associate your new kitty with positive things, place their favorite canned food, piles of catnip, or two toys tied together with a string run under the door. They can play back and forth, eat together and associate each other with things that they like. After this has been successful, change from a solid door to a screen door or double-stacked baby gates.

This will allow them to now see each other as well as get hissing and slapping out of the way without being able to hurt each other.What you want to avoid is repeated negative interactions. That will make the whole process harder for her, and he probably thinks that attacking her (especially if she makes some loud noises) is the best game ever. Never leave them unsupervised. If he starts exhibiting aggressive behavior immediately interrupt him and redirect him onto something appropriate like a feather toy, laser pointer, or treats thrown away from the area of conflict.

The newcomers’ socialization as a kitten, Gizzy’s socialization as a kitten and how they interpret each others body language can all be contributing factors. Size and sex makes little difference in the feline world, and oftentimes a female is the dominant one. When you do finally have them all free roaming in the house remember to have more than enough of their basic needs available in multiple areas. Do not force them to interact around food, water or litterboxes as that will create a multitude of other problems. Behavior medications should not be considered until all other environmental factors have been exhausted.

  We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Will Draper of the Village Veterinary Centers. Meet the AJCpets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today. Q: I have a 15 yr old chihuahua who is in good health. However, he is starting to gag as though there is something in his throat.  He coughs whatever it is up, then swallows. The gagging sounds awful and I am afraid it will choke him.  Do you know of any medication I can give to him to stop this? He sleeps with me and does it all night long. It’s awful and scarey!  A: Chihuahuas and other small breed (or toy breed) dogs can have a condition known as a “collapsing trachea”. Affected dogs’ tracheas will collapse (think of squeezing a toilet paper roll until it is flat), and they have a difficult time with inspiration or expiration of air. It sometimes makes a “honking” sound. Generally, once they calm down, the trachea goes back to its normal, tubular appearance and the dog appears fine. There is really no treatment for this, other than surgical correction- and it usually sounds a lot worse than it is. Being that your baby is 15 years old, however, I would make sure your veterinarian does a complete physical- including blood work and x-rays.  Heart disease, which can also cause coughing and gagging, is more prevalent in geriatric dogs- and can generally be controlled if caught early.  Q: I have a 6 year old Pomeranian who throws up about once per day. It’s always hair and just a clear/yellow-ish liquid. Any way I can help prevent this?  A: This type of nausea, in the absence of other signs of gastrointestinal distress (i.e. diarrhea, lack of appetite) is usually due to something as simple as a pet eating too much too quickly. There is a valve between the esophagus and the stomach that will only allow a certain amount of food in before it “shuts off”. Once this happens, and a pet continues to eat, the food stays in the esophagus…and eventually they regurgitate it (which is different than vomiting). It is usually undigested food. Feeding smaller amounts more frequently can help this issue.There is also other things to consider, such as a food allergy or some mechanical issue. To rule these out, a visit to your veterinarian is the best advice.

We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Kate Jackson of the Jabula Dog Academy. See all the AJCPets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: I have an 8-week-old black lab puppy that loves to bite and chew on my hands. What can I do to help him break this habit? I keep chew toys all over the place, but he seems to be more interested in chewing on me. I will be traveling with my sister and her small children soon and don’t want the puppy to chew on them. Please help!
A: Mouthing and chewing are a very natural part of a puppy’s development. Puppies learn through their mouth. You need to teach your puppy the appropriate use of its mouth. When you interact with your puppy make sure you always play and even pet with a toy in your hand. Dogs think in black and white, so you need to be consistent! Make it a rule to never allow teeth on skin. When your puppy’s teeth touch your skin make a sharp, firm noise such as “Egh, Egh,” and end the interaction immediately by freezing briefly and then walking away. Your puppy should learn that when his teeth touch your skin, interaction with you instantly ends. Mouthing and chewing the appropriate articles, like toys, means more fun and interaction with you. Make sure your puppy has chewies that are tasty and appropriate. Do not give too many at one time or your puppy will get bored. Frequently change out the toys and chewies to keep interest up.

Q: I think my dog (a Shih Tzu) has a split personality. For example, he loves my mom and will jump on her lap and sit there while she pets him. But on two occasions he has turned around and bit her (while looking totally calm the second before the bite). Please advise.
A: There could be several different reasons for this issue. If aggression suddenly starts with a dog you should consult your vet. It could be that your Shih Tzu has some pain, and when your mother touches a certain spot on him it causes the aggressive reaction. This is something you would want to rule out with your vet before you seek behavioral help.
If your vet does not find a cause for the aggression, then you need to look to the behavioral side. He would need an evaluation based on his age and the history of aggression. In the mean time, do not allow him to jump up onto a lap. Jumping on furniture is an act of dominance.He should only be invited up on occasion, petted for a short period of time and then go back to the floor. I would also make him earn rewards such as sitting on your lap. For example, have him sit and wait a few seconds before you invite him up. By having him earn rewards, you create more value and he will appreciate the time more. You also need to make sure he is getting enough exercise. Dogs will develop a host of issues when they do not get enough exercise. Even though he is a small dog, he still needs to walk in heel position and not stop to sniff and pee along the walk. If things do not improve, and his vet check comes back clear, you should seek professional help. He might need more intensive behavioral counter-conditioning.

We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Ingrid Johnson of Paws Whiskers and Claws, The Feline Hospital in Marietta. Meet all the AJCPets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: We are getting new carpet, and I wondered how we can keep our cat from clawing it at the doors when they are closed?
A: When it comes to keeping cats out of a specific area of your home, the best policy is all or nothing. Cats do not understand why they can have access to certain areas of your home sometimes and not others. In fact, giving them a taste of it and then taking it away each day actually creates frustration behavior.

This means that they will usually express their frustration with the situation by scratching at, urine marking, or excessively vocalizing at the door to where they are either confined or denied access. So the best thing you can do is make the decision to either open these doors up permanently or close them permanently and start now, before you install the new carpet. You may also want to consider more pet friendly flooring, such as laminate, tile, or a dense non-tufted carpet that is not so easily shredded.
It is important to remember the reasons why cats scratch to better understand how to redirect them onto appropriate objects. Cats scratch to mark; they have scent glands in their paw pads. They also scratch to groom their nails, and to relieve stress and pent up energy/frustration.
Here are a few ideas to deter your kitty if they still insist on scratching at the door/carpet:
1). Place a scratching post on top of, or right next to where he is scratching as to give him an appropriate outlet for the behavior in the place he wants to mark. You may want to try the corrugated horizontal scratcher available at most pet stores or get a scratching post with a sisal carpeted base so he can scratch horizontally or vertically.
2). Nail Trims! Keeping your cats nails trimmed short can limit the amount of destruction they can do, learn how to do it yourself, or have a pet sitter, or your veterinarians’ office help you. Some feline-only practices offer nail trims at no charge.
3). Lay packaging tape, vinyl, linoleum etc., down over the spot to create a slick unappealing surface. Also provide something he will like to scratch on in the same area. Remember, set them up for success!

4). Double sided sticky tape, black pepper and other smell associated deterrents can work also. Feliway is a pheromone product that encourages your cat to mark with his facial scent glands rather then with his paws or his urine. In this case, the spray would be most effective and should be used daily for at least a month on the carpet and surrounding walls/door frame area. It does not stain and is not harmful to other children or pets.
5). The Sccccat device is a motion sensored can of compressed air that will simply send your cat in another direction, humanely, when he approaches the spot where you don’t want him. Other devices similar to this are available in pet supply catalogs and online, some with only an audible warning.

We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Dr. Susan Wynn of Georgia Veterinary Specialists in Sandy Springs. Look at all the AJCPets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: We have a 13 yr old schnauzer, more toy size than mini,(8.5 lbs) that has been diagnosed with kidney failure. She is on a renal diet dog food, but what treats are appropriate for her, to keep the protein and more importantly, the phosphorus content low? Thanks for you help!
A: Check out the great Yahoo group called K9KidneyDiet - they have many suggestions in their files sections and archives. One favorite seems to be flavored rice cakes.
Dogs with kidney disease frequently develop poor appetites, and this is not always because they find their prescription diets distasteful. More often than not, they feel bad due to complications of their disease. Dehydration really makes them feel dumpy, and learning to administer subcutaneous fluids as needed can give you a great deal of control over a poor appetite. Dogs with kidney disease also develop GI ulcers, and managing those ulcers will help them feel less nauseous. Finally, Vitamin D is deficient in these patients and acts as a steroid hormone in addition to other benefits, but it only works in the form of ‘calcitriol’, available by prescription.
There is more great information on kidney disease on the Veterinary Partner. The collection of links starts here.

Q: I have a question about alternative flea control methods. I have tried Frontline and Advantix K9 but none seem to last more than 2 weeks. My problem is that I live in an apartment complex and they do not treat the grounds…So no matter how hard I try, it appears I am fighting a losing battle. My dog is a westie mix and is approximately 1 year old and 26 lbs. Is it true that brewer’s yeast helps to repel fleas without harming the dog? What about Skin So Soft…A myth? Also, if I can’t use brewer’s yeast, what can I use in conjunction with the flea meds? HELP!
A: It must be said at the outset that using natural methods of flea control is more labor-intensive than using chemicals. No matter what methods are used, it’s important to consider the triad of problems - the pet, the outdoor environment, and the indoor environment.
While your dog may pick up fleas from the outdoors, you can diminish that problem by using a flea comb every time he comes in from the walking area. Simple bathing twice a week will send some of those fleas down the drain, as well. The bigger problem is fleas that drop off the dog and lay eggs in the carpet or upholstery in the apartment - this is where the problem really magnifies. My preference for indoor flea control is sodium polyborate, available from Fleabusters. It lasts for 1 year, or until you shampoo your carpets.
On the dog, various natural sprays can be used, but in my experience, they don’t last much longer than a day or two. I don’t have much experience with Skin So Soft but I suspect this would be the case for that as well. The best tested herbal flea repellant comes from the Neem tree, but to be effective, significant concentrations are required and the herb extract smells like garlic. I doubt this would make a popular flea spray.
One lesser known secret to flea control is to feed a very high quality dog food. Most holistic veterinarians noticed long ago that dogs eating cheap dog food experience greatly exaggerated flea allergy, while those eating premium or homemade diets seem to tolerate the fleas better.
If you are looking for conventional alternatives to Frontline and Advantix, there are newer products available from your veterinarian. Check out this article on one of my favorite veterinary information sites, Veterinary Partner.

We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Will Draper of the Village Veterinary Centers. Check out the AJCPets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: Other than identifying what type of snake, what should a I do if my lab is ever bitten by a poisonous snake?
A: The best thing to do is to immobilize your pet and seek veterinary attention immediately. Antihistamines can help to minimize the effect, but should be given by a professional who can determine proper dosage and route. Venomous snakes can cause serious cardiovascular, neurological and dermatological issues, so time is of the essence in initiating treatment.

Q: What causes flies to attack my dogs ears and what can I do for it?
A: Biting flies will attack dog ears to collect a blood meal. There is less hair on ears, and the thin skin — as well as the dogs inability to protect that part of the body — make the ears a prime target. There are ointments that can be purchased that contain citronella, a fly repellent. Putting this product on the tip of dogs’ ears can be a great help.

Q: My 10-year-old dachshund went through allergy testing at the vets. Basically she is allergic to everything that blooms in the spring. Is there an allergy pill available for dogs? I was told that the only thing that she could be given were allergy shots. Thanks.
A: There is currently no allergy pill to desensitize your dog to her allergens. There are medications (antihistamines, cortisones) that will help with the itching, but they do not take away the underlying cause. Allergy shots can help many patients; once the allergens are determined, a vaccine is produced, and then small amounts of the allergens are introduced into the body subcutaneously — thereby helping the pet build up an immunity to them. If you have not done so already, a referral to a veterinary dermatologist would be a great next step.

We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Dr. Drew Weigner of the The Cat Doctor. See all the AJCPets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: My 4 year old calico has been biting her front leg obsessively for many years now. She has been on and off three types of medication (they work for a while and then she starts up again). We have had to put a cone on her, but she is so down and out with it on, and it still doesn’t keep her from chewing on the bottom part of her legs. I’m assuming that its an OCD issue, but wanted to see if you had any thoughts.
A: Chewing, itching, and hair loss are fairly common symptoms in cats. The causes tend to fall into three categories: fungal infections, diseases that cause itching, and those that do not. Fungal infections (also called “ringworm” but has nothing to do with worms) are easy to diagnose by performing a fungal culture, a simple test that can be done in your veterinarian’s office. The treatment is straightforward and usually results in a cure.
Itchy skin diseases, like hypersensitivities and autoimmune diseases are more complicated to diagnose but respond temporarily to long-acting anti-inflammatory injections. If she improves from the injection (and the fungal culture is negative) something is causing her to itch and further tests can be done to identify exactly what is causing the problem. If she doesn’t improve, the likely cause is psychologic. These conditions respond poorly to drug therapy and can be frustrating to treat. They sometimes respond to pheromones or behavioral therapy.
Two other uncommon causes are skin parasites (such as mites) and endocrine diseases, such as Cushing’s Disease. The test to diagnose mites is simple but frequently negative, even when mites are present. Diagnosing endocrine diseases requires a complete medical work up but often appears with other symptoms, such as increased thirst and urination.
Finally, if nothing else works, ask your veterinarian to refer your cat to a board certified veterinary dermatologist. These specialists are trained in the most advanced diagnostic methods and treatments and can often help in frustrating cases.

Q: My 3 year old Abyssinian has a “nasal fungus” that he’s had since he was a kitten. Two doctors and thousands later, there is no change - he still sounds like Darth Vader! I give him prednisolone every couple of days but I think this is more for my state of mind than anything else. Have you any thoughts on this?
A: Sinus infections are one of the most frustrating diseases veterinarians see in cats. There are many possible causes including viruses, nasal tumors, and allergies, but many cases go undiagnosed despite complete medical workups and intensive therapy. While fungal infections are not the most common cause, they are one of the few that can often be cured with proper diagnosis and therapy. A complete medical workup includes x-rays, cultures, and biopsies but once a fungal infection is diagnosed, a long course of antifungal medication is usually curative if the proper medication is used long enough.
It’s also possible for a fungal infection to occur secondary to another underlying disease, such as a nasal tumor or an unrelated disease affecting his immune system, such as Feline Leukemia, diabetes, etc. In this case it can be difficult, if not impossible, to cure the infection. The bottom line is if he really has a nasal fungus and it isn’t getting better, why not?

We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Kate Jackson of the Jabula Dog Academy. See all AJCPets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: Can my dog be trained to NOT chase after the cats? I got my dog when she was a 3-month-old rescue. Having grown up with dogs and cats co-existing peacefully or ignoring each other, I didn’t think gradually introducing the puppy would result in anything other than household harmony. This wasn’t the case then or now. The dog is now 4-years-old and is great with people. But when it comes to birds, squirrels, other dogs and our cats it’s an entirely different matter. She will chase anything and I am worried about what she will do if she catches one of our cats. In the house we’ve managed to separate the cats from the dog. I would consider training, but it can be expensive and I am not sure it would do any good at least as far as the cats are concerned. I’ve heard that certain breeds just instinctively go after what they identify as vermin. Any advice would be appreciated
A: This is a really difficult one, as prey drive is very hard to control. You are right, it is an instinctive drive in many breeds of dogs, just like fetching a ball is an instinctive drive for a retriever. As a rule, never leave your dog with your cats unattended, even if training is going very well! You need to be present to correct any inappropriate behavior and reinforce the correct behavior. More importantly, accidents can happen very quickly, and you don’t want to undo any training you have done. You need to work on desensitizing your dog to the presence of your cats. Teach your dog a “place” command where she goes to her bed and stays there. Your dog should be able to master a 30–45 minute “place” with moderate distractions before you introduce your cats. Moderate distractions would be remaining in “place” while the doorbell rings and you let a visitor into the house.
Once she understands the command, use a leash to tether her onto something that will not be pulled over. Bring her into the room and send her to her place and attach the leash to something sturdy. Bring the cats into the room and use lots of treats and praise when she stays on her place. If she jumps off, calmly lead her back with her leash telling her to “place”. When she is following her command, use plenty of praise and treats. Use high quality treats so she starts to associate staying calm around the cats gets her very high value rewards. Over time, she will associate the presence of the cats with high value treats, and hopefully get used to their presence enough to ignore them.

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Q:I adopted a 2 year old terrier mix a few weeks ago from the local humane society. Things have been going well for the most part but it is apparent that she has major separation anxiety. I have worked on crate training and she appeared to be doing fine. My basic routine is to leave her in her crate when I go to work and then my neighbor comes to get her after lunch and she plays with her dog until I get home. She is never left alone for large amounts of time. However, another neighbor (I own a townhouse) offered to buy her a bark collar. She acts fine when I am home…will get treats out of her crate, go in and out, won’t sit in it by choice but will sleep through the night inside it without a peep. However, it looks like when I am gone she barks and yelps for HOURS!! Please help! I am beginning to feel that I should stay home with her when I am not at work so that she doesn’t disturb the neighbors. Last night I went out for a few hours, when I got home she started throwing up! I spent half the night tracking down an emergency vet. The conclusion was that she had become so upset when I was gone that she started vomiting. Please help!
A: I am so sorry to hear your little dog gets so upset when left alone. Separation anxiety can be very difficult to deal with, particularly with neighbors so close by. Terriers are working dogs, bred with specific jobs in mind. At two years old, your little dog is in the prime of her working life. Anxiety based behaviors usually develop when intelligent, high drive working dogs lack metal stimulation. Mental stimulation coupled together with exercise, are going to be the key in getting her through the anxiety. Dogs are pack animals, so when left alone, will often develop separation anxiety or destructive behaviors as a result. Studies have shown that in most circumstances when left alone, dogs will sleep for approximately 90 percent of the time. For the remaining 10 percent of the time, dogs will occupy themselves. In the case of separation anxiety, the behavior is most often destructive. For this reason, dogs need to be occupied for approximately 10 percent of the time they will be left alone. In conjunction with this, dogs have an instinctive “Hunt, Eat, Sleep” routine that should be used to alleviate anxiety when left alone. In the domestic environment, the “hunt” should be replaced by a walk. Walks should be at a brisk pace, requiring dogs to remain in heel position for added mental exertion. Once home and cooled down, dogs should be fed and then left with approximately 45 minutes to 1 hours worth of toys/chew bones to occupy them. I find leaving 2 to 3 different edible chews or toy dispensers is best. Keep Kongs filled with plain yogurt in the freezer as a daily treat. Raw, frozen marrow bones are also an excellent chew treat — they provide raw meat enzymes and satisfy a dogs quota to chew. Mind bender treat toys, such as buster cubes, dispense treats one at a time, requiring the dog to think. Once your dog has completed the “Hunt and Eat” part of the instinctive routine fulfilled by the walk, food and chews, their internal instinct will help them relax and sleep the rest of the time they are left alone. In your little dogs case, additional training may be necessary to challenge her mentally on a higher level. Look for group training classes in your area to take her to. Being a terrier; she would probably thrive at agility, too. Good luck!

Q: We have a 7-year-old Cairn terrier. He is afraid of his food and water bowls. Any suggestion?
A: There are a few things you can try. You might need to give him different bowls. If you have been feeding him from metal bowls, sometimes the dogs tags brush the bowl and the noise scares them. Cover the tags with a tag silencer to help dull the noise. As much as you are tempted to, do not hand feed him. Dogs will eat when they are hungry.
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We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Tim Link, president of Wagging Tales and a practicing animal communicator and Reiki energy healer for pets. Do you wonder why your pet does that? Have Tim ask them why. He can speak to your pets, both living and dead. Read about all the AJCpets experts, then submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: Hi, I rescued a kitty 3 years ago, Lilly, from my office park. She was in bad shape and is now doing well. But she has some emotional problems. What is going on and what can I do to make her happy and calm?
A: Lilly is still going through some emotional trauma from being alone. She also is unsure about whether you want her to stay. Lilly will need constant reassurance that she is doing well and you are happy with her. Some calming herbs and flower essences added to her diet may help as well. Look for ways to offer Lilly confidence, stress relief and love.

Q: Our dog seems to be very well but she has changed her eating habits. Sometimes she doesn’t eat anything in the morning, other times it’s the evening. This has only happened about a couple of times over the last month and when she doesn’t eat the night before she is chowing down the next morning. We are just concerned that she can actually go a day without food. Is this normal behavior?
A: Though it is not recommended, dogs can go a day or two without eating. As long as they are staying hydrated, they should be fine. If the eating habits change drastically, if there is a change in appearance or behavior, or the dog stops eating for multiple days, contact your veterinarian immediately

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We found some of the best pet experts in metro Atlanta. Look for your answers every Monday. Today’s advice comes from Ingrid Johnson of Paws Whiskers and Claws, The Feline Hospital in Marietta. See all the AJCpets experts. And feel free to submit questions in the form of a comment today.

Q: We have an older dog and want to get two cats. We’d love to have a kitten, but also want to give a home to an older cat. What do you think of the idea of getting an older (even perhaps elderly) cat, and a kitten? Does that sound like courting disaster?
A: Whenever one is looking to add furry members to their household, one of the most important factors is compatibility with the humans, each other and the existing pets. If we think about the activity level of an adult cat, or even senior cat compared to that of a kitten we realize that we are in two completely different worlds. A pair of litter mate kittens would be an ideal choice, a pair of senior cats would be an ideal choice, even the pairing of a young adult (1-3yrs) with a kitten (in the 3-8 months range so it can hold its ground) would be a practical choice.

However, pairing a feline toddler with a feline 80-year- old and expecting them to be friends is a recipe for disaster. The cats have nothing in common and that kitten is going to annoy the older cat with its need for play and entertainment. Appropriate corrections on behalf of the older cat can quickly escalate to aggression, and then we have a sad little kitten who desperately needs a friend. These kittens can quickly become destructive or aggressive with their humans (hand biters and feet attackers) because they have no one with whom they can appropriately play with and practice their hunting instincts on. They end up growing up as poorly socialized cats because the older cat wants nothing to do with them.

When adopting, try to look for pairs that are already bonded. You will have much greater success introducing them to the home and with them getting along with each other.

One last option would be to adopt one senior cat and a pair of kittens. This would allow the senior cat to interact when he chooses to and he can teach them good kitty manners. But when he doesn’t want to be involved, the kittens have each other for play.

Q: Hi, I was wondering how I can get my three-year-old tortoiseshell cat to use her own litter box versus the other cat’s litter box.
A: The only one in the house that thinks one litterbox is for one cat and the second box is for the other cat is the human! There is no such thing as Fluffy’s box vs. Sam’s box. To your cats the litterbox is a place to communicate, mark, and eliminate. It is much more than a toilet to them. Most cats like to urinate in one box and defecate in another, so it is ideal to have multiple litterboxes in multiple locations around your home.

It is always preferred to have 1 more litterbox than you have cats, so you really should have 3 boxes in 3 different spots. This is so they can cross mark, and so that not all boxes can be “guarded” at any given time. It is a very human concept that the litterboxes should have exclusive use by only one cat. Just be happy that they are using the boxes consistently and NEVER scold them for using any litterbox.